Any fee listed only as an acronym should raise a red flag. They include floor-plan fees (the cost to hold inventory at the dealership) and vehicle-preparation fees (for cleaning, removing plastic and checking fluids). Some fees you should never pay because they are part of the cost of doing business. Find out what other dealers charge - the dealer may reduce its fee to match the local competition. But dealers in Florida may charge several hundred dollars. You may also be stuck with administrative fees and fuel charges if they're listed.Ī few fees inhabit a gray area - you'll likely have to pay them, but you might be able to negotiate. includes this in its invoice and TrueCost figures. These are fees that the dealer has to pay to the manufacturer and is passing along to you, including the destination fee (the cost to transport the vehicle to the dealer) and the carmaker's regional advertising fee. Legitimate fees are listed on the factory invoice, which the dealer should share with you. Or for $200, CarBargains ( will get bids from five dealers in your area on the car you specify. Use the invoice price of both the vehicle and options to compare deals. Solicit bids from them over the phone or via e-mail. ![]() You can follow Car-Bargains' strategy yourself: Approach several dealers, but ask to speak with one of the managers - they know the bottom line better than the salespeople and care more about volume than commission. Pit dealers against each other - all the dealers in your area will be working with the same holdback and dealer cash incentives. "You don't need to be an expert," says Robert Ellis, of CarBargains, the car-buying service of the nonprofit Consumers' Checkbook organization. ![]() But to get the best deal, make dealers compete for your business. ![]() Knowing the dealer's actual cost and potential profit can help you drive home a bargain.
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